SHOCKING AND REAL LIFE STORIES * JUICY GOSSIP*CELEBRITY INTERVIEWS* FASHION *HEALTH AND SPORT
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the contents of this season’s high-end men’s fashion magazines and you
will notice a curious trend: male models are getting older. Though young
models, aged 16-24, still dominate editorial content, models over
30—once an extremely rare species—are now being featured everywhere.
Even stranger, these older models actually look their age. Wrinkles and
gray hair seem especially coveted. Men in their 30s, 40s, 50s, and, in a
couples cases, 60s can all be found serving as models in current
magazines. For many of these magazines, the turn to older models has
resulted in novel editorial content. Issue 19 of VMan, for example,
contains a tongue-in-cheek “Dress Your Age” shoot, a brief “Then and
Now” photo story that juxtaposes pictures of 30-year-old models with
their 20-year-old selves, and a photo-driven interview with 52-year-old
Jeff Aquilon, the “first male supermodel,” that revels in the aging male
body. The Autumn/Winter issue of Vogue Hommes International is even
more daring: the entirety of its content is devoted to men aged 40 or
above. Editor Olivier Lalanne explains that successful “mature” males
offer both “a glowing physical presence” and “experience and energy”
that are “an electrifying inspiration.” Though not every men’s fashion
magazine has embraced the older male so thoroughly, all of them seem to
be at least looking in their direction. The ubiquitous interviews with
“up-and-coming” youth that once made up the majority of text-based
content have given way (at least for the moment) to stories on
established and successful cultural figures. The simplest—and, to my
mind, least convincing—explanation for this trend is the current
“graying” of the West. According to The Fiscal Times, 24 percent of the
U.S. population is currently age 50 or above, a figure that is set to
rise in the coming decades due to increased life expectancies and
declining birth rates. Meanwhile, the last of the baby boomers are
approaching retirement, during which they will trade work (or so the
story goes) for leisure-based lifestyles. Transgenerational Design, a
research and advocacy organization, predicts new retirees will exercize
more, travel more, and pursue more part-time, intellectually stimulating
employment. Unlike earlier generations of seniors, the boomers are thus
expected to be more active consumers. The new prevalence of older male
models in fashion magazines would therefore seem to indicate a shift in
marketing strategy on the part of the fashion industry as it adapts to
demographic change. There are two problems with this hypothesis,
however. First, it mis-understands the older demographic group, to whom
it attributes too much spending power and too great a susceptibility to
magazine-driven brand-based luxury marketing. Five years ago it may have
been reasonable to expect aging baby boomers to transform the senior
population into a new, major segment of discretionary consumption. In
the aftermath of the economic collapse, however, which caused most adult
Americans to lose 30 to 50 percent of their retirement savings, these
retirees will have much tighter household budgets. For those who do
still have sufficient income to purchase high-end menswear, such
purchases will almost certainly be continuations of spending patterns
begun in their youth. Individual demand for designer fashion is built
across a lifetime and is highly dependent on the early development of
aspirational relationships to specific brands. It is thus highly
unlikely that any new demand for expensive menswear is going to be
instilled in men aged 50 and above simply by using older models in
high-end magazines. Second, the “marketing to an aging population”
argument mistakes editorial content for advertising campaigns. Certainly
there is an incestuous relationship between high-end fashion magazine
staff and fashion advertising talent, but the trend towards older male
models is currently wholly confined to magazine editorials. In this
season’s advertising campaigns by Gucci, Prada, Marc Jacobs, Tom Ford,
and other leading fashion houses, older men are nowhere to be found.
Though it is possible that editorial content is serving as an industry
testing ground, it seems more likely that the shift towards older models
is instead being driven by magazines’ own economic needs. The market
for high-end fashion magazines, which grew tremendously in the first
half of the current decade, has steadily declined since the economic
crisis. Ad sales have dropped (at the end of 2008 the number of ad pages
sold by the magazine industry fell 10%, according to The Publishers
Information Bureau), as have newsstand purchases. High-end magazines are
especially susceptible to dips in consumer spending as they typically
cost between $15 and $50 dollars an issue. If magazines are thus turning
to older models, this is no doubt partly driven by basic cost-cutting:
older models are generally cheaper to hire. They also, at least at the
moment, provide magazines with new possibilities for creative content
and thus new ways to prompt consumers to buy their issues from the
newsstand or take out subscriptions. There remains one final,
economic-related explanation for the new trend of older male models. It
is has been repeatedly observed that the cut and style of designer
clothing becomes more conservative during economic downturns. Perhaps
consumers’ cultural tastes similarly adjust in such downturns, shifting
away from surface beauty and the excitement of youth and gravitating
more towards experience and genuine accomplishment. This is all
speculative, of course, but it does seem likely that the
live-in-the-moment, consumption-based lifestyle of Western youth is—at
least, temporarily—coming to an end. In October, the U.S. reported an
unemployment rate for 16-24 year olds of 18.6%. The editorial shift
towards older male models might thus represent a wider scale cultural
shift regarding the “image” of success and achievement. In a world where
jobs are scarce and high levels of education indispensable for economic
survival, the old truth that “Youth is beauty” may have finally had its
day.
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